Dhelvi Iftar at Ananta
Ananta, at The
Oberoi is and endless fusion of Indian culinary traditions. Ananta in Sanskrit translates
to “infinite” or “endless” and both the service and the food at Ananta is
infinite and endless.
The Oberoi seems
like a time machine that oddly transports you to India – from the turbaned
concierge who pleasantly welcomes you to the sprawling entrance of Ananta
almost resembling an old Haveli. A massive antique door with intricate invites it’s
patrons to the soothing music and enchanting décor.
As soon as we
walked in, admiring the paintings and the décor, a pleasant staff ushered us to
our table. I’m not surprised why the BBC Good Food award for Best Indian
Restaurant (under the ‘fine dining’ category) went to the hotel’s Indian
restaurant, Ananta.
The setting of the restaurant is very romantic and cozy. The interiors ring out a muted sophistication with deep maroon upholstery, dark warm wood and mellow yellow lighting that is offset with the brightness of the open-view tandoor kitchen.
The setting of the restaurant is very romantic and cozy. The interiors ring out a muted sophistication with deep maroon upholstery, dark warm wood and mellow yellow lighting that is offset with the brightness of the open-view tandoor kitchen.
The golden
cutlery adds to the richness of the ambiance; and fusion Indian music, a cusp
of ragas and trance, gets us into the groove for Indian fine-dining. I was
totally in love with the ambiance. Candles were lit on every table waiting
anxiously for its patrons.
We sat by a
window that looked into the hotel courtyard. All I could notice was how the
small patch of trees looked surprisingly in place with the modern urban lines
of solid steel architecture.
I was looking forward
to revive the fascinating delights of Dehlvi Cuisine, ancient Delhi’s own
gastronomical saga. The uniqueness of
Dehlvi cuisine lies in its fascinating mix of traditions, geography, culture
and community influences that have partaken to lend their own intrinsic stamp.
The Mughals after their many invasions, the hardy Punjabi’s after Indian
partition and settlement, the Kayasthas and their peppery flavours, the
Vaishyas and the Marwaris with their rugged aromas. The myriad blend of spices,
aromatic infusions, base ingredients and staple juxtapose with earth relish in the
vast array that’s Dehlvi cuisine.
We started off
with our Dehlvi Journey with a right in propah welcome drink - the chilled Thandai. We were given
the iftar and the beverage menu. Their
beverage menu consists of the best of the wines and whiskey. They also offer
fresh fruit juices, soft drinks, mocktails, cocktails and other hard drinks.
I ordered for Aam Panna, a tangy North Indian green mango drink spiced with cumin and black salt. Ananta’s version is of a thicker
consistency than what you usually get. I loved the tangy burst with each sip
However, as we
were here for an Iftar, we started off by breaking the fast the traditional way.
A beautiful long platter was laid in front of us with dates, prunes, apricots,
figs, samosa and a bowl of fresh fruits laced with tangy masala.
I loved the fact
that there was ample time between each course, thus enabling us to enjoy every
morsel and taste every bite without just rushing it through.
We were in for a
surprise as we waited for the soup, a wide mouthed plate laid with apples,
parsley and crouton was put in front of us, and we were distracted with our
conversation to even notice how pretty it was. The moment it all sank in,
piping lentils was poured onto the plate. I was more than glad that we got a decent
image and video of the same. We were so lost in the beauty of the presentation
and the way the dal was served that for a moment we were left awestruck.
I’m not a soup
person – hence when I tell you I loved the soup, you are sure to enjoy it
yourself. The lentils were well cooked and every morsel was a surprise to the
palate. The crunchy sweet apples were a pleasant taste with the savory dal. I
enjoyed it so much – it has become my new soul food.
The soup plates
were cleared and we had enough time to enjoy the ambiance, and each other’s
company before the next starter came by. I opted for pudina paneer tikka and
husband was more than happy to go with Gosht ki chapli.
Both starters
were served on a wooden tray. Pudina Paneer tikka was served on a bed of yellow
capsicum, tomato and was served with beetroot puree, and beetroot puree mixed
with yoghurt.
The Dehlvi
platter extends into a playful spread of alluring masterpieces
The racy yet
invoking aromas of marinated paneer gave a mouth melting sensation.The paneer
were succulent and juicy. My knife just went through the paneer in a matter of
seconds. They were fluffy, soft and just melted in your mouth. The flavors of
mint along with the tandoor was so delectable that you couldn’t not enjoy it.
Not only were the starters beautiful to look at, they were flavor some and
scrumptious.
I could tell
from the look on my husband’s face that his starter was as tasty as mine. He
devoured every single bite and sat back with a smile of satisfaction.
To carry the
sensory perception to permanence, I ordered the Bhisan De Kofte which were
lotus stem dumplings cooked overnight in milk and spices, served with tomato
gravy. No points for guessing what the Mr. went with – he ordered the Dhelvi
Nihari, which was 48 hour slow braised.
Indian lamb
shank (the mere description had him salivating). We were told that the main
course that was selected will be served on a thali with accompaniments – Dal Makhani,
Burrani raita, Saffron Pulao along with a selection of breads.
Our thali’s did
make me nostalgic – it was served on a large oval steel plate covered with a
banana leaf and small steel bowls. Usually you are served food on a banana leaf
in South India, and I was pretty surprised to see the same for a Dhelvi
cuisine. Along with the aforementioned
accompaniments, my thali included an Indian curry to be had with bread and
salad served in a papad bowl.
I was pretty
excited to try the Bhisan De Kofte, as it was the first time I was having lotus
stem. The kofta was a mix of various vegetables along with lotus stem with a
khoya base (reduced milk) in the centre. It was served with delicious tomato
gravy and was served with finely chopped almonds. The Kofta was very delicious,
the almonds lent a crunch while the tomato gravy gave it the necessary
tanginess. Khoya in the centre was
definitely a surpise.
Dal makhani
needs a special mention. This slow-cooked black-lentil broth, loaded with
buttery goodness, had me raving from the first spoonful.
We winded up myriad cultural and historic gastronomic
legacies into sweet endings Dessert was served on a white palette and it looked
artistically beautiful. A fruit tart, shahi tukda, and aam ka meetha was
served. The fruit tart was so beautiful, that you didn’t feel like touching it.
My favorite were the Shahi tukda and aam ka meetha. Both were delicious and I
was hoping it never got over.
We ended the
gastronomic meal with hot cups of Sulaimaani
Chai. The warmth of caffeine was much needed to digest all
this overeating!
Saneesh K. Varghese is the Head
Chef at Ananta, and is also the man behind the creation of many of the
flavorful dishes the award-winning restaurant has on offer.
Chef Saneesh hails from the
Southern Indian state of Kerala, and comes from a lineage of spice traders who
have a profound love for cooking. It’s no wonder that he started off at an
early age of 8.
Despite being a South Indian,
Chef Saneesh trained as a professional North Indian chef, and joined The Oberoi
under this capability. However, his love for coastal South Indian dishes has
seen a number of classics from this region making entrances on the Ananta menu.
It was no wonder that we did see
small South Indian touches like the banana leaf at the Dhelvi Iftar. Not only
is he a wonderful Chef, but also a perfect host. He kept us company and hailing
from the same state in India, we did have a lot to talk about.
Dhelvi cuisine ensures a total
recall with such symphonies of grand bygone kitchens. Our taste buds went on a Royal culinary journey. The food in
Ananta is rich, delicious, authentic, and traditional. The service and the
ambiance is top notch.
Ananta is the
perfect choice for that very special dinner out.
Contact:
Timings – 12 Noon to 3:00 PM
7 PM to 11:30 PM
7 PM to 11:30 PM
Cost: AED 480 for two
Reserve your table at: +971 44441407
I was invited to Ananta and all views and images are © Urbanmodish, unless stated otherwise.
I was invited to Ananta and all views and images are © Urbanmodish, unless stated otherwise.
