Showing posts with label Georgia. Show all posts

Georgia - Day 3 | Kazbegi


 Good Morning Kazbegi!

That view stole my heart and mind for a good amount of time (I just kept staring at it). Gen was so gracious to offer me some coffee and bread (mentally crying), when I told her id be heading out for breakfast. We both were to go to the Gergeti Trinity church and planned on doing so together (such good call).






We headed out and shared our information regarding the time that we’d need to hike uphill to the church. It was hilarious as to how incorrect we both were.

We discovered later on that there are 3 trails to reach Gergeti (there might be many more). Two of those are hiking trails, and the other one is by road. The one we chose was apparently the easiest hiking trail, according to a group of guys we met on our way back. Me and gen exchanged looks and  mentally recapped the effort we took to reach uphill, and just politely smiled and nodded in unison (ROFL).

The route we took is the most common route (and it isn’t EASY). Also, this is coming from a completely unfit person who does have breathing difficulties (lol). So don’t take my word for it, may be the guys were right about this being the easy way up.

We huffed and puffed our way uphill, following a track that was already there. Towards the end, we decided to be more risky and just took the shorter route (why didn’t we do this earlier). Reaching uphill was the most amazing feeling. The view was one to die for and so worth the effort we took. On one side we saw a group going to another part of the mountain, with their camping gear. On another side was the Kazbegi mountain standing tall with clouds kissing its peaks (so beautiful).




















Gergeti is under construction, and is almost just a few structures. However, the climb was so worth it. Especially the view, OMG. I’m not sure how often am I going to run short of words to express how alluring the view was in Georgia. Kazbegi had my heart. It’s one of the most beautiful places that I still had to explore, but unfortunately I didn’t plan as well as I thought I did.
We sat and soaked in the view, clicked a few pictures. But more importantly felt amazing at having reached and not giving up on the trail to the church. We had left the hostel at around 9:00 am, it was so good to have left early on.


















There were many others who had left earlier, as we did meet a lot of people on our way uphill. On our way back, we saw a group of elderly people who were hiking way better than us. Some had their walkers, some had their walking sticks as well. That view was so encouraging, I’m not sure, if I’d have that energy to hike or even travel at that age. But that group was so inspiring.
We reached back with  much ease and sat down to have lunch with some Kachapuri and Natakhtari (the latter was a favorite for my entire trip). Gen introduced me to the drink, and it was amazing. The Kachapuri was warm and cheesy and filled us up very fast, but was enough fuel to help us get back to the hostel.



I freshened up and was ready to go to Kutaisi. We bid farewell, and I headed to the bus stop, only to realize that there was no direct bus or transport to Kutaisi from Kazbegi and the only way to get there was from Tbilisi. At this point in time, I wasn’t surprised and headed back to Tbilisi.

 Read Day 1 HERE
Read Day 2 HERE
Read Day 2 - to Kazbegi  HERE

Much Love 

xoxo

Georgia - Day 2 | Mtshketa to Kazbegi


Hello Kazbegi!

Kazbegi was a long ride from Tbilsi. If I remember correctly, it was almost 5-6 hours via the local bus. The journey to Kazbegi was a sight for sore eyes. It was beautiful, soothing, and tranquil. The view didn’t make it feel like a long ride at all. It was so scenic and was poetry in motion (Not exaggerating at all).









I was staying at the White House Hostel, booked via Bookings.com (not sponsored). As mentioned earlier, I loved the flexibility it offers of no upfront payment, which makes your plans very flexible.

I reached Kazbegi, and walked towards the hostel (as per how it showed on Google map). A moment of gratitude for longer days in Georgia. I crossed a bridge and headed towards the location (it was a 3-5 minutes’ walk from the main stop).  The bridge looked had a very narrow pedestrian walkway and as I gingerly walked towards the direction of my hostel, I couldn’t not admire the gorgeous lake flowing below the bridge and it seemed to be flowing from uphill.
I saw signs for the Gergeti church (which was on my list, and was thrilled how close it was to my hostel) and made notes, while heading to my hostel. I finally reached a barren piece of land that my hostel as per the map was supposed to be on (lmao). This would have essentially sent me into a fit of panic, but oddly enough, the situation was way too hilarious to panic (Yes, I’m wired weirdly).




I called the Hostel number, but couldn’t get through. So I decided to try and find the place, by asking around.  I walked backwards, and went to the area where I was dropped off and asked around.  It didn’t work that well. However, I set off to a cafe, and explained my situation. The lady who owned the place was so helpful. She called the number, found an alternate number, and asked the Hostel lady to come and pick me up from her place (Well, she literally did shout at her).

She offered me some wine (perks of getting lost), and we had a good conversation going, till my host showed up.

The Hostel was a good distance away from where the google pin had showed (lol). But it was all so worth the hassle. The view from the window was breathtaking in the morning. And I wouldn’t mind getting lost again just for the view.

I met my roomie on my way to the hostel. As I was freshening up she came back and we exchanged pleasantries. She is an ex teacher from South Korea (Gen), who has been travelling for the past 6 months (I was left mighty impressed at the thought of how brave she was). She had bought some ‘Churchkela’  - Georgian sweet. You will see it everywhere in Georgia, and I was definitely intrigued as well. It does look really weird and hence we were a bit apprehensive to try it. Churchkela, broke the ice (we made some indecent jokes about how it looked). Post our tasting session, loads of giggles and some conversation,  I decided to explore Kazbegi  (read:dinner options).


I went looking for cafe 5047m, as I read a lot of review of the place. It’s located right in the center (where the bus drops you off), but getting into the place was a bit tricky, as it has a very small entrance you might definitely miss. Don’t expect amazing service, as the place is usually packed (and also they are generally laid back). I ordered for wine and Khinkali, and waited for a really long time, and reminded them (almost hangry here) 2-3 times. It was getting really cold and they went around offering blankets (that’s when I stopped mentally complaining). The cafe has a beautiful view to watch the sunset. My khinkali’s tasted like heaven along with the wine and I savored in the moment of incredible tranquility.

I left the cafe at around 10:30 sh and jeez was it a dark (2 glasses of wine and lack of direction was not a good choice). I walked towards my hostel in pitch dark, maybe it was the wine but I didn’t really panic. Luckily, I managed to find my way back to the Hostel, and called it a night.

Much Love,

xoxo
Read Day 1 HERE
Read Day 2 HERE


“All you need to know is that it’s possible.” – Wolf, an Appalachian Trail Hiker

Georgia - DAY 2 | Mtshketa

Read Day 1 HERE


Hello Georgia!!!

 I still can't believe I'm here all by myself.

 I woke up early morning, packed my bags and left for Didube metro station. (Spoiler Alert - I traveled in Georgia using public transport and also hitchhiked a lot :p).

 I said good bye to the girls and set off!


I reached Rustaveli Metro, bought a metro card (filled it for GEL 2, its so cheap!) and went  for the longest escalator ride ever. The underground metro in Tbilisi is really deep. I heard Londoners insist that their metro is the deepest (can't comment since I haven't been there), but Georgians feel otherwise. The metro project was initiated by Stalin (Yes THE Joseph Stalin, he is from Georgia), it was apparently left midway, however the government then took it up and completed the metro (as told by our tour guide).


Coming back to the fact, that the metro is really deep. It's like going to the upside down  (Stranger Things fan alert). I saw people sitting on their way to the metro (clever, indeed), long chats, fast knitters - it was indeed a world of its own. 

 P:S - you can't take pictures of the Metro. (However, be kind and smile and you can take a picture). Always say Gamarjoba (Hello, in Georgian), it helps a lot. 

 I finally reached the metro, and asked which metro goes to Didube, which started a conversation and one that ended in him helping me find a Mashrutka (local bus) that would take me to Mtshketa. Yes, Georgians are extremely friendly, approachable and are always willing to help.

The Mashrutka was packed, and I was standing at the door with my backpack on (excited and nervous). I so wanted to take pictures, but standing and being tall didn't really help. However, I was offered a seat (sniff), and took a lot of videos and images (yay), almost forgetting where I was supposed to get off at (don't be surprised, I'm geographically handicapped and perpetually lost).

 The guy who offered me his seat, told me where I could get off (literally shook me and said  - your stopppp  - lol). I got off (all lost, again), but the beautiful landscape calmed me completely.



Beautiful mountains and a calm lake flowing by with the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the backdrop and the Jvari monastery uphill made me all happy and fluffy inside (I was thrilled).




I made some friends along the way to the Cathedral. And on my way in I met Tato (tour guide). The Cathedral is everything beautiful, calm, serene and transports you to a different era. The sound of birds, the hint of friendly wind calming your entire being, the smell of fresh grass and some chants in the church all gave me goosebumps. This place is so out of the world, and so very beautiful. 





Entering the church, entails a strict dress code. One must cover their head and incase you have worn fitting pants or skirt, just wrap a scarf from the many boxes kept outside. The insides are as magical as the outsides. It takes you to a different world. I felt an overwhelming avalanche of emotions and stayed put for good amount of time. My heart healed in my Lord's presence, and a sense of calm engulfed me. This cathedral was my first point of healing.

 I stepped out and went to the information desk to figure out how to get to Jvari Monastery and other areas of interest. The women in the center were extremely helpful and helped me plan to get to Kazbegi as well. As I got out I saw Tato waiting for me (That was really kind).Tato is a tour guide and offered to show me around, as Mtshketa is home for him. 

 Jvari Monastry overlooks the Aragvi and Mtkvari river (such a calm and breath taking view). Jvari was packed with tourists, but it didn't take away from my amazing experience. Jvari is gorgeous. I have a special liking towards old dilapidated structures, as they all have hidden stories in them (or so I love to believe). 













We then went to Samtavro Cathedral. The Cathedrals are so beautiful. Majority of the Georgians are Orthodox Catholics, and you'd find more Orthodox churches here. (But oh so pretty). I loved the chants/prayers in most churches I visited (be careful when taking pictures, most often you aren't allowed. But a kind word does take you a long way).







We visited a Wine shop opposite the Samtavro Cathedral. It was a fun experience to step into an almost ancient modern wine shop and discover some Georgian history along the way.




We ended the day with some amazing Khinkhali over Georgian wine . It was an amazing day, and had it not been for Tato, I  would have definitely missed the church and the wine shop.

Bebristshike was beautiful. There are some restoration work going on (July 2018), but you can still visit the place. We went around and sat overlooking the river. It was such a surreal and beautiful experience. The calmness of it all was just beautiful.








I was looking so much at the river, that I couldn't not go there. We headed towards the river and spent some time there as well. So calming and OMG , it was just beautiful. I love water bodies and have an ironic attachment to them (I'm hydrophobic, lol). If you ask was there anything touristy about the river, well no. It had a very rustic quality to it and is a place visited by the locals often. So amidst the calm you can also hear locals talking about their catch. It was just beautiful.






I had already figured out that Mtshketa to Kazbegi doesn't happen as per my research (lol) and that I had to go back to Tbilisi (Didube) and take a Mashrutka to Kazbegi (lmao)


So inspite of my extensive research, I loved how I was wrong. Being wrong is essential to improvise. 

 From Didube, i found the best seat right next to the driver and was pumped to head to Kazbegi (Onward and only onward we go).








The Journey to Kazbegi was a sight for sore eyes. It was beautiful. I feel like I need to find more synonyms for beautiful, as Georgia is everything beautiful. The roads were comfortable to be traveled by, the view was breath taking and the company was all I could ask for. 

The best part about travelling alone, is that you have different people on every journey. Different people = different cultures, many stories and an endless journey of conversations! 


Mtshketa

 The former capital of Georgia, has some outstanding examples of medieval religious architecture. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The site is believed to have been settled since around 3000-2000 BC. Its mild climate, and its fertile soil together with its strategic location at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers made it an ideal home for human habitation. It also became an important stopping point on the ancient trade routes and was a significant site of early Christian activity. Mtskheta was the capital of the early Georgian Kingdom of Iberia, from the 3rd century BC until the 5th century AD. At the beginning of the 6th century, King Dachi I Ujarmeli moved the capital from Mtskheta to Tbilisi, in accordance with his father’s will.

One of its most important monuments is Samtavro (the Place of the Ruler), where a small domed church was originally constructed in the 4th century. The grave of Mirian, the Georgian king who adopted Christianity, lies within the church. Another significant religious site is the Svetitskhoveli church. Built on the site of a wooden church, the complex includes an 11th century cathedral. Originally its interior was decorated with wall paintings, but these were whitewashed over. Recently fragments of the original paintings have reemerged from below the whitewash covering.

Next to Mtsheta, on top of a hill above the Aragvi river is the Mtskhetis Jvari. This complex contains several buildings from different periods including a classic Georgian cruciform church dating from the mid-6th century. There are beautiful views from here. A taxi from the centre costs around 20 Lari. To get to Mtskheta from Tbilisi go to the Didube bus station and take Marshrutka for 1 Lari.

Much Love 

 xoxo

“The journey not the arrival matters.” – T.S. Eliot
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